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To gain soldering skills on printed circuit boards, you might want to find a piece of electronic equipment that s been trashed and rip it apart to solder and unsolder the parts from the circuit boards until you feel competent You may find that unsoldering is more difficult than soldering, yet this practice will help you in learning how to apply only just enough of the hot iron s tip to the board without damaging it Practice is really the best teacher and you don t have to worry about ruining a one-of-a-kind board Before embarking on any type of soldering, you should clean the soldering iron s hot tip with a wet rag or with the small, dampened sponge on a soldering station It must be clean to do a good job Most people like to use rosin core 60/40 solder, which is 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, for electronic work It is basically a tube of solder containing a tiny bit of rosin in the center Never use acid core solder Smaller 0032-inch diameter solder is good for smaller joints; and larger, 0050-inch and 0062-inch diameter can be used for larger, non-circuit board joints Next, dab a bit of solder on the tip that is called tinning the iron Holding the soldering iron in one hand, feed a bit of solder from a reel onto the tip The trick is to melt the solder and quickly apply it to the joint to be soldered Use only enough to make a tent of the solder around the component s wire lead protruding through the circuit board s hole and neatly covering the O-shaped circuit pad surrounding the hole Most soldering iron tips are of the chisel tip variety, and you want to place one of the chisel s faces flat on the surface you intend to solder to transfer the heat as rapidly as possible If you did it right, the tent of solder will cover the pad and taper up the wire a bit, and it will be shiny If the solder forms a ball or is not shiny, you didn t get it hot enough These are called cold joints For printed circuits, you must be careful not to overheat the traces and cause them to lift off the board You re working in that narrow area of getting it hot enough for a good joint but not too hot to damage the board A 15 40 watt soldering iron, or pencil, works best for printed circuits Be careful to not cause solder bridges from one trace to another Another important consideration is protecting the components you are soldering from excessive heat and static electricity Integrated circuits (ICs), small transistors and diodes, capacitors, small resistors, and other smaller components can be ruined by too much heat As with the circuit board s traces, you must keep the iron on the board and protruding lead only as long as it takes to make a clean, shiny solder joint Tiny clip-on heat sinks can route heat away from a component Soldering one lead of a component, and then waiting until the component cools a bit before soldering another lead, especially on ICs, helps to prevent heat damage.

1 Run cabling to the location where you want your sensor and magnet positioned You might need to use fish tape to run the cabling through the wall 2 Prepare the cabling by stripping insulation from the cable and two wires 3 Drill hole through wall or floor (as shown in Figure 6-12)

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Appendix A:

Figure 6-12

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Many wires are used in robot construction to run from control circuitry to motors and sensors You should always use stranded conductor wire as opposed to solid conductor wires The many strands allow for better flexibility and greater current carrying capacity Before soldering the wire, strip a small amount of insulation from the wire an amount appropriate for the particular connection Twist the strands slightly with your fingertips so they are held together in a slight spiral and are not splayed out Then tin the wires with a bit of solder before soldering the wire onto a connection To tin the wires, tin the soldering iron s tip with an excess of solder and place the heated ball of solder on the tip against the bare wire strands As the wire heats, the solder should be sucked into the strands as you add a bit more solder Again, too much heat can damage the wire, or at least melt or burn the insulation Practice makes perfect

4 Fish cable through wall or floor 5 Connect sensor to door jamb 6 Connect magnet to door (shown in Figure 6-13) The sensor and magnet come with an adhesive backing, however we re also using #4 screws to attach the sensor and magnet for additional strength

Figure 6-13

Connectors are used in many places on large and small robots They connect many wires to your control modules, receivers, drivers, sensors, and many other items Most connectors have a series of pins in rows or circular patterns The pins usually have small cavities behind them into which wires are soldered or crimped As always, you don t want to overheat the pins to damage the connector, but each of the pins should be tinned with a bit of solder, as should the wires to be inserted While applying heat to the back of the pin, slowly insert the tinned wire, taking care not to have one or more strands splay out Do this with each wire until completed As always, practice makes perfect When soldering the larger wires used in combat robots and other large machines, the use of a soldering gun helps a lot Tinning large wires that are used in terminal lugs is recommended, as more surface area of the wire is in contact with the barrel of the terminal lug, thus reducing resistance and allowing more currentcarrying capacity A large soldering gun or small torch can be used to solder copper and brass sheeting and tubing, both to each other and to wires

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7 Connect sensors to security cabling with this type of two-wire sensor, it doesn t matter which lead is spliced into which wire 8 At the control panel, the following connections are made:

C a u t i o n Remember, good soldering takes patience for the best results Be careful not to allow drips of solder on your clothes For obvious reasons it burns; but it s also impossible to get it out of some fabrics without burning (melting) it out

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